My mother makes the best biryani, hands down. I have treasured childhood memories of important events being celebrated with mum’s biryani and it was one of the first recipes I made sure to take with me when I moved out. Culturally in India this dish has always been something reserved for celebrations and special occasions because in all honesty, what crazy person wants to spend 6 hours making an ordinary dinner?
Unfortunately there’s now one problem with my mother’s version – it uses lamb. With meat firmly off the table since I went vegan, I’ve spent quite sometime trying to get back to that familiar taste using vegetables. I must have made hundreds of Vegetable biryanis over the years in vain – I hated all of them. The saviour here was in the form of Jackfruit, a traditional centrepiece to biryani recipes in the south of India. My first bite and I knew I had found it – my perfect recipe, the one that tasted just like home.
I should point out that this is a merge of two different traditions of biryani. Southern Indian Biryanis are the versions that tend to be vegetable or jackfruit based. With a basis in hyderabadi biryani, these recipes tend towards being more spicy. While northern biryani, is much dryer, uses less spice, and has left of a focus on vegetarian ingredients. I’ve tried to fuse both traditions into a vegan version that’s complex while not being overwhelming.
This recipe is going to take a while, just like the version my mother makes. Including soaking time for the rice, I wouldn’t be surprised if we were hitting almost 6 hours but it’s completely worth it. Spend some time paying attention to the details so that it’s all worth it and use this recipe for a special occasion, or one of those days where you can enjoy playing in the kitchen for hours with music to dance to. You’ll be rewarded with an amazing smelling kitchen and a dish like no other.
Enjoy!
- Makes: Serves 4-6
Ingredients
For the Rice:
- 500ml Basmati Rice
- 2 ltr Vegetable Stock
- 2 Bay Leaves
- 1 tsp Black peppercorns
- 4 Green Cardamom
- 4 Cloves
- 1 Tbsp Salt
For the Biryani:
- 1 Tbsp Saffron
- 60ml Warm Coconut milk
- 3 Large Onions
- 4 Cloves of garlic
- 1 Green Chilli
- 10g Ginger, peeled
- 25g Sliced Almonds*
- 40g Sultanas
- 500g Green Jackfruit**, drained and rinsed
- 250ml Vegan Yogurt
- 3 Large Tomatoes, diced
- 4 Bay Leaves
- ½ tsp Black Peppercorns
- 1 Black Cardamom
- 4 Green Cardamom
- 6 Cloves
- 1 Cinnamon Stick, about 5cm
- ½ tsp Fennel Seeds
- 1 Tsp Turmeric
- ½ tsp Cayenne Pepper
- ½ tsp Nutmeg
- 1 tsp Garam Masala
- 2 Tbsp Coconut Oil
- 1 Tbsp Fresh Coriander, chopped
- Oil for frying
Directions
Start with your rice so it can soak while you do the rest of your preparation. Wash your rice in plenty of water, changing the water every time it turns cloudy. Once the water is clear, leave it to soak in at least double the amount of water to rice. Preferably the rice should be left to soak for at least 3 hours but soaking for one hour should do in a pinch. (Optional; some chef recommend adding 1 Tbsp of salt to the soaking water to help ensure your grains stay fluffy and not at all sticky.)
When the rice has finished soaking, rinse and drain it well. Bring the stock to a boil in a large pan with the spices and rice. Simmer for 8 minutes, or until the rice is half cooked. Drain well, cover the rice and set to one side.
Set a dry pan over a low heat and gently toast the saffron threads until they smell fragrant and turn a few shades darker. Now crumble the threads into your warm milk and set to one side. Like the rice, saffron milk works so much better if you can leave it to soak for several hours.
In the same dry pan, lightly toast your whole spices on a low heat. Once they have browned (not burnt!) all over and smell amazing, remove from the heat and set into a separate container to cool. Once cooled, grind your spices finely and set to one side.
Cut two of the onions into half rings and set to one side. The last onion can be roughly chopped and placed into the blender with the green chilli, ginger, garlic, and half the almonds. Add about 45ml of water and blend until a smooth paste forms.
Slice the jackfruit into bite sized chunks, about 1-2 cm square and put to one side. Now place a large, heavy bottomed casserole dish on a medium to high heat with about 90ml of oil. When the oil has heated, fry the onion rings until they turn brown and crisp. Remove the onions from the oil and set them to one side while they drain on kitchen paper. Add the sultanas to the same oil and remove once they turn plump. Now add the last of the sliced almonds and fry until they turn a light golden brown. Again, set these to one side to drain on kitchen paper.
Now fry the chunks of jackfruit, a few at a time, until they turn golden brown. Don’t be tempted to overcrowd the pan as this will drop the temperature of your oil and will stop the jackfruit from browning, just turning oily instead. Set the jackfruit to one side.
In the same pan, add another quarter cup of oil and drop the heat down to medium. Add the onion paste you made earlier to the pan and fry until it turns a deep brown. Now add the yogurt to the pan, a tablespoon at a time so as to not reduce the heat too much. Using just a touch of water, deglaze the pan, scraping up all the brown bits that have stuck to the bottom. Return the jack fruit to the pan with the chopped tomatoes, about half a cup of water, and a tsp of salt and simmer on low for about 30 minutes with a lid on.
Add all the spices to the pan apart from the garam masala, mix well, and continue to cook for another 30 minutes. Now remove the lid, increase the heat to medium high and simmer until the sauce reduces by half. Turn off the heat and stir through the garam masala. Top your sauce with the rice we cooked earlier in a nice sloping pile. Drizzle the saffron milk along the sides of the pile and evenly spread out the coconut oil in a few small dollops with just half the cooked onions.
Cover the pot, with foil and the lip if your lip doesn’t form a tight seal, and place into a preheated oven at 150 degrees. Bake for about 45 minutes.
When you remove the dish from the oven, gently stir the rice and jackfruit together. Serve family style, garnished with the sultanas, almonds, coriander and remaining onions.
Notes
Take your time with this, make it meditative and time for you to enjoy. If you try to rush it then you’ll miss something or overwhelm the pan when frying off your ingredients to start off with.
* If you don’t have any almonds to hand then about a quarter cup of cashews will work equally well.
**I use tinned, young green Jackfruit. The weight here is the drained weight of the jackfruit once out of the tin so should be about 2 tins.
Allergy Notes; If nuts are an allergen for you then use 2 Tbsp of roasted sunflower seeds in the onion mix and skip the nut topping.
This recipe is vegan, gluten free and soy free – enjoy!